EXTREME LIP ENLARGEMENT OR RECONSTRUCTION: (CAUTION: This does not look natural in person, but will be fine for stage and some photo work)

Step 1: Using a Green Color Corrector neutralize the whole lip area.

Step 2: Apply a cream based foundation with a sponge.

Step 3: Set area with a neutral setting powder.

Step 4: Use a Nude Lip Liner slightly darker than their natural skin tone and draw the new shape of the lips you desire.  Make sure everything is filled in in the middle. 

Step 5: Using a cream based highlighter or a white/cream lip pencil, highlight the new cupid’s bow.

Step 6: Using a cream based contour or a neutral brown eyebrow pencil contour the underside of your new lower lip to create a little bit of a ‘ledge’.

Step 7: At this point you can set it with a neutral or colorless powder to matte it out because you are trying to recreate the appearance of a real lip and not a false lip.  NOTE: Real lips have ridges so you are trying to create that illusion with the nude lip liner. 

Step 8: Take a lip liner that matches the lip stick that you are wanting to use but it one shade darker. You are going to line the along the edge of the nude fake lip has been made, you are going to treat that as the outside of your lip

Step 9: Using a lip liner the exact color of your lipstick that you want to be use it to liner the entire lip again and fill in the center completely with the lip liner so you have created a false labial roll with the nude and a false vermilion with the nude lip liner.

Step 10: After you have filled in the false lip with the lip liner completely you are going to take a matte lipstick, no shimmer, no shine,(Because light will attach to it and make it obvious that it is a false lip.  The light will show where the natural ridges and curves to our lip are and draw attention away from the false lip that you have created.) one shade DARKER than the ideal lip color that you want.  Apply to the outer edges of your lip.

Step 11: Then using a lipstick that is the perfect shade you will apply the lipstick over the entire lip area as though the whole are is the real lip.  (Again this must be a MATTE lipstick.  If you do not have a matte lipstick, but you have a color you really want to use that has a gloss or a shimmer to it, you can go over it with a matte eye shadow, or blush of the same color to set it and matte it out.)

Step 12: Using a final lipstick one shade lighter than the ideal lip color, apply it to the very center of the lips and blending.

Step 13: Set with a neutral set powder.

And that is how you over draw your lips.

Method Makeup Academy, Sacramento’s Makeup School